© 2024 Connecticut Public

FCC Public Inspection Files:
WPKT · WRLI-FM · WEDW-FM · Public Files Contact
Play Live Radio
Next Up:
0:00 0:00
Available On Air Stations

After years of drought, whitewater rafting is roaring back to life in California


After years of drought, rivers across California are flowing fast and furious, as they say. Well, anyway, there's a movie by that name - several of them.


People like it. People like it.

INSKEEP: People like it. People like them. The melting of a big snowpack is pushing water down from the mountains. And that flooding, of course, has done damage. It is good news, though, if your business is whitewater rafting. Joshua Yeager of our member station KVPR takes us to the Sierra Nevada mountains on the upper Kern River.


JOSHUA YEAGER, BYLINE: Almost as soon as we launch our boat into the river, the directions start coming in a cascade as swift as the water

MILES CURTIS: Forward, forward. Keep going.

YEAGER: Our guide is Miles Curtis. He's been navigating the Kern for decades, which is a good thing because we've got a major rapid right ahead of us, and the water feels like ice, even through my wetsuit.

CURTIS: Dig in. Keep going. Yeah, baby.

YEAGER: Millions of gallons of white foaming water swirl around us. This rapid is called Powerhouse, named after a century-old hydroelectric plant that towers overhead. After about 45 seconds of adrenaline-pumping paddling, we're through it.

MATT VOLPERT: So we are having what we call a big water year.

YEAGER: That's Matt Volpert, who runs Kern River Outfitters here. His shop looks like a stable. Big rafts hang from the ceiling. We talk outside.

VOLPERT: We've had flows now that are higher than anything we've seen since 1983.

YEAGER: The snowpack here in the southern Sierra is 300% of average.

VOLPERT: And when that starts melting, we have high water, and people love high water. Think of, like, the best powder day you've ever had.

YEAGER: But the high water also brings more risk. Authorities are urging people to be extra safe on surging, freezing rivers. Already this year, several people have been swept away. Volpert says customers have to show that they're fit enough to raft, and guides are doing extra training.

VOLPERT: They have to know every rock, every wave, every hole.

YEAGER: The potential danger hasn't deterred customers from enjoying the massive flows. In fact, here on the Kern, a big water year means big business.

VOLPERT: It means we're going to be really busy. So we opened on April 1, and we expect to be running until mid-September.

YEAGER: That's months longer than the most recent seasons, if you could even call them that. The Kern was barely a trickle before a dozen-plus atmospheric rivers drenched California this winter. Drought conditions have been so severe at times that they forced Volpert to close his business. At one point, he considered quitting for good.

VOLPERT: We actually talk about it all the time. Like, man, what are we doing here?

YEAGER: It's a question outfitters throughout the West ask with increasing frequency. That's according to Aaron Bannon, director of America Outdoors. He represents 300 whitewater companies nationwide. He says many in California are working hard to adapt to the state's extreme weather whiplash, worsened by human-caused climate change. Some have modified trips when flows are piddly.

AARON BANNON: Maybe you, you know, do two half-day trips instead of one full-day trip.

YEAGER: Despite biblical-seeming challenges - the pandemic, wildfires, drought, flooding - Bannon and others say outfitters are a resilient bunch.

CURTIS: Forward two. Forward two.

YEAGER: Back on the river, we've just gone through another rapid. Our guide, Curtis, has his fingers crossed that the so-called big melt of the record snowpack doesn't happen too fast and make the river too dangerous. In the meantime, Curtis says rafters should make the most of a banner season.

CURTIS: Yep, this is the season to raft.

BANNON: And as high temperatures rise across the Sierra, the high water might be the place to beat the heat.

For NPR News, I'm Joshua Yeager on the upper Kern River.


Joshua Yeager

Stand up for civility

This news story is funded in large part by Connecticut Public’s Members — listeners, viewers, and readers like you who value fact-based journalism and trustworthy information.

We hope their support inspires you to donate so that we can continue telling stories that inform, educate, and inspire you and your neighbors. As a community-supported public media service, Connecticut Public has relied on donor support for more than 50 years.

Your donation today will allow us to continue this work on your behalf. Give today at any amount and join the 50,000 members who are building a better—and more civil—Connecticut to live, work, and play.