Now, practically obsolete, hats and bonnets were once a staple in every woman’s wardrobe. Hats and bonnets provided protection of the delicate female complexion against the harshness of the sun. Prior to the 1920s, suntans were a symbol of manual labor and were unbecoming to ladies of leisure, and those who wished to be perceived as ladies of leisure. Bonnets, which became very popular during the 1820s and 1830s, ranged in shape, style, and decoration. The exorbitant brims of two particular styles of bonnets provided a great deal of sun protection.
The first became known as a poke bonnet. These bonnets provided enough room in the crown for every bit of hair to be “poked” in and covered. Their wide brims sheltered women’s pale complexions, and embellishments such as ribbons and artificial flowers provided a way to express social status. These bonnets were also known as “coal scuttle bonnets” because their broad brims resembled the implement used to fuel a coal stove.
Leghorn bonnets also became popular. Named for the finely plated European straw used in their construction, the name eventually became synonymous with all straw bonnets. A broadside from between 1810 and 1826 features a poem about leghorn bonnets and pokes fun at their large size:
“To wear it don’t flinch,
Nor lop off an inch,
Of that Gun-boat that’s christen’d a Bonnet.”
The decoration of bonnets, hats, and clothing came to a culmination during the 1820s and 1830s providing a varying array of ornamental opportunities, from lace and ribbon to feathers and flowers. Bonnets grew in size until the middle of the century, when small, dainty hats and bonnets became popular. Although decoration still abounded, women’s hats remained modest in size until the start of the 20th century, when huge, broad-brimmed hats came back into fashion.
