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Connecticut's Growing Role in Mushroom Cultivation

Patrick Skahill
/
WNPR
Logs drilled, plugged with mushroom spawn, and coated with wax.
Credit Patrick Skahill / WNPR
Mushroom farmer Rick Baxley, left, with Christian Lamontagne at 7 Falls Mushroom Farm in Higganum.

Last month, Governor Dannel Malloy announced more than $880,327 in state grants for dozens of Connecticut farms. Among the recipients is a farmer in Higganum looking to fill 1,000 logs with many more mushrooms.

Mushroom growers drill about 50 holes in a log, and implant something called "spawn," or mycelium.

Rick Baxley grows his mushrooms outdoors and in logs, which is a slow, labor-intensive process that starts in the coldest months of winter. "I was out in the middle of my woods in February," he said, "wishing I had snowshoes, trying to cut down 100 trees. I knew [that] out of 100 trees, I could get 1,000 logs." 

Those 1,000 logs are tied to a $7,963 grant from the state Department of Agriculture that Baxley received in March. Under the agreement, Baxley will throw in an additional $7,963 to grow shittake mushrooms for sale at local markets. "I'm at a borderline of retirement," he said. "At the time I wrote this grant, I was between jobs. I was considering this as a retirement opportunity, and the state just endorsed that fact."

Baxley said demand for mushrooms is much higher than it was ten years ago. On his land at 7 Falls Mushroom Farm, there are stacks of logs everywhere: oak, maple, and birch; hardwoods Baxley said are especially good for shittake-growing.

In a nearby barn was Christian Lamontagne, 15, wearing a Metallica t-shirt and safety goggles. He was standing on a floor covered in sawdust as he prepared Baxley's logs for something that sounded very clinical: "inoculation." Mushroom growers drill about 50 holes in a log, and implant something called "spawn," or mycelium. 

Credit Patrick Skahill / WNPR
Mycelium, above, is mixed with sawdust and implanted into the logs. A plugger, pictured in the upper right corner, is used to fill the drilled holes.

That spawn then gets covered with a fine coat of wax. "That's just a paraffin, like you'd put on a jelly or a jam, and it seals in the moisture and the sawdust and keeps all the other competing fungi out of the hole," Baxley said. The logs are then brought outside to sit in a moist area. He said, "In six to nine months, the plant will grow throughout the log."

Credit Patrick Skahill / WNPR
Baxley stores his innoculated logs above a stream that runs through his property. He said the water provides temperature variation that's beneficial for the mushrooms.

Baxley's mushroom farm plans to shop its mushrooms around to local restaurants and farmers markets.

Baxley said he isn't sure what the future will hold for his farm, but as he experiments with different woods and strains of mushrooms, he is sure about one thing: "This first year is a lot of learning," he said. "This is either going to be a lot of fun, a part time business, or maybe it'll get bigger than that. We just have to wait and see."

Connecticut is no stranger to big mushroom farms. The massive Franklin Mushroom Farm was New England's largest mushroom grower, producing millions of pounds of mushrooms annually until it closed several years ago.

Patrick Skahill is the assistant director of news and talk shows at Connecticut Public. He was the founding producer of Connecticut Public Radio's The Colin McEnroe Show and a science and environment reporter for more than eight years.

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SOMOS CONNECTICUT is an initiative from Connecticut Public, the state’s local NPR and PBS station, to elevate Latino stories and expand programming that uplifts and informs our Latino communities. Visit CTPublic.org/latino for more stories and resources. For updates, sign up for the SOMOS CONNECTICUT newsletter at ctpublic.org/newsletters.

SOMOS CONNECTICUT es una iniciativa de Connecticut Public, la emisora local de NPR y PBS del estado, que busca elevar nuestras historias latinas y expandir programación que alza y informa nuestras comunidades latinas locales. Visita CTPublic.org/latino para más reportajes y recursos. Para noticias, suscríbase a nuestro boletín informativo en ctpublic.org/newsletters.

Federal funding is gone.

Congress has eliminated all funding for public media.

That means $2.1 million per year that Connecticut Public relied on to deliver you news, information, and entertainment programs you enjoyed is gone.

The future of public media is in your hands.

All donations are appreciated, but we ask in this moment you consider starting a monthly gift as a Sustainer to help replace what’s been lost.