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Vermont’s early homesteaders grew their own linen. One museum keeps the tradition alive

A woman in an 18th century gown holds up a flax stalk in one hand, and a bundle of flax in the other hand, in a sunny grassy field.
Zoe McDonald
/
Vermont Public
Skye Makaris, lead educator at the Ethan Allen Homestead Museum, holds freshly picked flax as she explains to museum visitors how to help with the harvest on Saturday, Aug. 15. She's portraying Fanny Allen during this living history event.

Behind the main building at the Ethan Allen Homestead Museum in Burlington, in a sunny patch of grass, people of all ages gathered around a small plot of straw-colored stalks.

Skye Makaris, lead educator at the Ethan Allen Homestead Museum in Burlington, planted this 200-square-foot plot back in spring. It’s filled with tight rows of flax — a crop that, in the late 1700s, was integral to colonial life.

Flax is the raw material that makes linen, one of the oldest textiles used by humans. Societies from the Egyptians, to medieval Europeans, to colonists in the late 1700s wore linen and used it for household goods like bedding. American-produced linen even became a touchpoint in the Revolution, as women began to make and wear “homespun” fabrics to become less dependent on textiles from Britain.

Two women in dresses pull flax from a grassy area. A pile of dry flax sits in the foreground.
Zoe McDonald
/
Vermont Public
Eve Schaub, left, and Skye Makaris, right, pull flax during the Ethan Allen Homestead's annual harvest.

People sought out linen then for the same reasons they do now.

“It is always pulling moisture away from itself, and it retains this natural moisture-wicking property as a textile as well," Makaris said. "So, to wear a garment made of linen next to your skin on a warm day is to have it constantly pulling and wicking the moisture from your skin.”

The flax harvest is held every year on “Fanny’s Day,” when the museum highlights the work of women on early Vermont homesteads.

People gather in a semi-circle around a woman in an 18th century gown with a pile of flax at her feet.
Zoe McDonald
/
Vermont Public
Skye Makaris shows museum visitors the first stage of processing flax after harvesting.

Fanny Allen was the wife of legendary Vermonter Ethan Allen. She maintained their home and farm and grew food for the family. Like many other homesteading families in colonial New England at the end of summer, she and her children would harvest their a plot of flax (records show the Allens grew about a quarter-acre), then spend weeks processing it into linen thread.

On the day of the museum’s flax harvest, staff and volunteers wore their best period garments. Makaris, portraying the day’s titular figure in a floral printed caraco, striped apron and straw hat, led museum visitors as they plucked handfuls of the stuff.

“When it's actually ready for harvest, it will come out of the ground almost effortlessly, almost like pulling a loose tooth,” she said.

The resulting pile of fibrous vegetation was then rippled — a term for the act of removing the seedheads with a comb-like device.

A young girl uses a comb-like tool to remove seedheads from flax stalks.
Zoe McDonald
/
Vermont Public
Evie, age 9, practices rippling, in which the flax seedheads are removed using a wide wooden comb.

After this flax dries, it’ll be retted — either soaked in a tub of water or left out in the morning dew for weeks. An 18th-century word for “rot,” retting allows microbes to break down gummy pectin in the plant, making its tough outer husk easier to remove.

The next steps, breaking and scutching, slowly start to reveal the thin fibers. Then you can move on to hackling, when those fibers are combed until they become smooth, shiny, and a bit hair-like.

The result of all this physical work? “A skein of thread that's maybe the thickness of my thumb, and about a foot long,” Makaris said.

Old-time processes like this might seem like the stuff of days long past, but many small-scale flax producers still use the same methods now.

In the 10 years since the Ethan Allen Homestead Museum started demonstrating it, Makaris said she’s seen a growing interest in linen production. That includes individuals who want to try making linen themselves, with the same tools Fanny would have.

The Ethan Allen Homestead will hold its “Flaxstravaganza” event, where staff will show visitors how this flax is processed, on Saturday, Oct. 17.

A woman in a late 18th century outfit holds hairlike flax fibers out as an older man reaches out to touch it.
Zoe McDonald
/
Vermont Public
Skye Makaris shows a musuem visitor processed flax fibers. This is how flax looks before it's spun into linen thread.

Zoe McDonald is a digital producer in Vermont Public’s newsroom. Previously, she served as the multimedia news producer for WBHM, central Alabama’s local public radio station. Email Zoe.

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SOMOS CONNECTICUT es una iniciativa de Connecticut Public, la emisora local de NPR y PBS del estado, que busca elevar nuestras historias latinas y expandir programación que alza y informa nuestras comunidades latinas locales. Visita CTPublic.org/latino para más reportajes y recursos. Para noticias, suscríbase a nuestro boletín informativo en ctpublic.org/newsletters.

Federal funding is gone.

Congress has eliminated all funding for public media.

That means $2.1 million per year that Connecticut Public relied on to deliver you news, information, and entertainment programs you enjoyed is gone.

The future of public media is in your hands.

All donations are appreciated, but we ask in this moment you consider starting a monthly gift as a Sustainer to help replace what’s been lost.

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