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Greetings from Afrin, Syria, where Kurds danced their hearts out to celebrate spring

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Far-Flung Postcards is a weekly series in which NPR's international correspondents share moments from their lives and work around the world.

With their red loafers and scarves and sashaying, it's almost like these men, by linking their arms and dancing their hearts out, are able to briefly erase the horrors that happened here.

During Syria's war, Afrin — a majority-Kurdish area in the north — suffered kidnappings by ISIS, airstrikes, sexual violence and torture.

I'd last visited Syria before all of that happened, and had never been to Afrin. So for me, this region with a dark past is now indelibly just these joyous scenes from when I finally did visit in March — of Kurdish people celebrating the springtime Nowruz festival with more fervor than in decades.

What you can't see here are the sparkling turquoise waters of Maydanki Lake behind them and a patchwork of picnic blankets strewn with fresh flowers. What you can't hear is ululating voices, drums and wooden flutes. What I hope you can sense, though, is resilience.

Many minority Kurds celebrated Nowruz in secret under the repressive rule of the Assad family, and fled during the war. Now they're coming home — and dancing.

See more photos from Syria and around the world:

Copyright 2025 NPR

Lauren Frayer covers India for NPR News. In June 2018, she opened a new NPR bureau in India's biggest city, its financial center, and the heart of Bollywood—Mumbai.

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SOMOS CONNECTICUT es una iniciativa de Connecticut Public, la emisora local de NPR y PBS del estado, que busca elevar nuestras historias latinas y expandir programación que alza y informa nuestras comunidades latinas locales. Visita CTPublic.org/latino para más reportajes y recursos. Para noticias, suscríbase a nuestro boletín informativo en ctpublic.org/newsletters.

The independent journalism and non-commercial programming you rely on every day is in danger.

If you’re reading this, you believe in trusted journalism and in learning without paywalls. You value access to educational content kids love and enriching cultural programming.

Now all of that is at risk.

Federal funding for public media is under threat and if it goes, the impact to our communities will be devastating.

Together, we can defend it. It’s time to protect what matters.

Your voice has protected public media before. Now, it’s needed again. Learn how you can protect the news and programming you depend on.

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